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There is only one reason tourists visit
this town northwest of Ho Chi Minh City: to see the Cao Dai
Temple—the main cathedral. Caodaism is a homegrown
Vietnamese religion that mixes many traditional Eastern
religions with Christianity, animism, and the teachings of
Victor Hugo and Joan of Arc, among others. The Great Temple,
built in 1880, is fascinating—it's garish and surreal, with
an altar dominated by an enormous, suspended globe decorated
with glitter and a large, painted eye. The building is a
whirl of details, painted in pinks, greens and yellows. Try
to get there at least a half-hour before the daily noon
service, which is attended by hundreds of worshippers. Men
and women sit on opposite sides of the church in brightly
colored robes—red, blue and yellow for Confucianism, Taoism
and Buddhism. We highly recommend this excursion—see it on
the same day you go to the Cu Chi Tunnels. If you get an
early start and don't mind a long day, push on 10 mi/15 km
to the northeast to Nui Ba Den, a sacred mountain in an
otherwise flat area. There are temples, pagodas and
panoramic views to enjoy on the path up. 60 mi/100 km
northwest of Ho Chi Minh City.
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